Little India neighbourhood of Singapore
Fortune teller takes a snooze in Little India
Singapore’s Little India may be slightly more sanitised than the real thing, but visitors to this area of the city are sure to pick up on the distinct Indian feel. The smells of spice, Bollywood music, men praying in the temples, women dressed in colourful sarees and the vibrant shades of jasmine garlands all make it plainly obvious that you are in a very different area of town.
But, somewhat oddly, look around and you will notice the street names are all in English – Dunlop Street, Dickson Road and Clive Street certainly don’t seem like they’ve been taken from Mumbai or Delhi anyway. In fact, the district was originally set up by European settlers in the 1820s and the streets are named after the colonial bigwigs.
However, the Little India of days gone by was blessed with plenty of water and an abundance of grassland. This attracted cattle traders from India and eventually led to other economic activity growing in the area and the immigration of a large number of South Asians to the area. As the European presence faded in the early 1900s, the Indian community grew and Little India was born.
The main draw to Little India is how different it is from other districts in Singapore. It is very locally orientated and lacks flashy tourist attractions which, in itself, is a major pulling point. The best way to take in the area is simply to take a half-day or even a full day and do it on foot.
The main thoroughfare which runs through the district is Serangoon Road. This is the busiest area of Little India as it is crammed with traffic and people slowly moving forward. You’ll not move anywhere in a hurry along Serangoon, but the numerous shops and interesting side roads will ensure that moving at a quick pace would not be on your agenda anyway.
A prominent feature is the sheer number of goldsmith shops with all kinds of jewellery on offer. Unsurprisingly, it is also home to some of the city’s finest Indian restaurants, with the overflowing number of locals confirming their quality.
Also worth checking out are the two Hindu temples – Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple and Sri Veerama Kaliamman Temple. The former is best visited during the Thaipusam Festival, a time when the bodies of devotees are pierced with insanely sharp objects and they are getting ready for a four-kilometre procession. Meanwhile, the latter is the district’s oldest and busiest temple, dating back to 1881 and featuring splendid, and eerily realistic, sculptures.
Experience Diwali in Little India for a real treat!
The Tekka Centre, just outside Little India’s train station, should not be passed by. This building is on two levels and sells almost everything imaginable. On level one is an unusual wet market which stocks an array of weird and wonderful seafood, fresh meats, vegetables and a variety of rare Asian spices.
On the second level there are endless colourful sarees, vibrant bangles to accompany them, face jewellery, an interesting choice of antiques and collectables, and some excellent sculptures. The centre is a hive of activity as locals go about their daily business and a must to visit in Little India.
Right beside the Tekka Centre is Kerbau Road, an area full of roadside vegetable stalls of all different colours. This vibrant street features yet more silk sarees, while it is often common to see children on their Kompang (traditional drums) banging a hypnotic beat.
Visitors will find plenty of intriguing shops along this road including Y Shahul Hameed Glass and Frame Makers and Ansa Picture Framing & Art Gallery, both featuring frames of Hindu deities among other images. Also worth checking out is the Chinese mansion with its ornate window shutters and bizarre spiral staircase.
Next on the agenda is Buffalo Road, a chaotic, colourful and non-stop are of town. The narrow walkways are filled with numerous stalls selling jasmine garlands, mini oil lamps, coconuts and flowers, while the air is filled with smells from incense, flowers and spice all mixed together.
A great spot for last-minute shopping in Little India is the Buffalo Centre. It’s open 24-hours-a-day and in only a couple of minutes’ walk from the MRT station. This megamall offers anything you could want and more. For household goods, clothes and affordability it’s hard to find anywhere which can match it in Singapore.
Don’t expect too much in terms of presentation, or even quality of service for that matter, or you’ll be disappointed – the appeal here is the bargains to be had. The narrow aisles are lined with piled up goods, while the building is like a maze and one can easily lose their orientation. If you’re in the hunt for jewellery, textiles & fabrics or electronic gadgets, you’re in the right place.
After an entertaining but tiring day checking out what Little India has to offer, it would be a shame to leave without treating yourself to some fine Indian cuisine. Those on a budget can enjoy a huge set meal for under US$5 at the Saravana Bhavan, on Syed Alwi Road, while anyone wanting to splash out would be advised to head to Delhi Restaurant, on Race Course Road, with northern Indian cuisine being the speciality.
